Expect Nothing

I am back in Rishikesh. We have some fences to mend, this town and I, and so far Rishikesh is winning. Expectation is a funny thing. We are staying in an ‘upscale’ hotel that is the sister hotel from our last visit. It is not nearly as nice. We have no real closet or place … More Expect Nothing

Pretty as a Painting

Rajagiri, Tamil Nadu, India There are some places you visit that appear monochromatic, even boring on the surface. This is especially true if you’ve just come from a city alive with color. I stopped at this piece of ancient history as I was traveling from Tiruvannamalai to Pondicherry. Tiruvannamalai is a destination for many spiritual … More Pretty as a Painting

Time is an Illusion

Day 18 or maybe still 17, could be 19 Over nine hours from New Delhi to London. Half of it spent half sleeping. The other half spent rubbing elbows and thighs with my neighbors; a Sikh with a giant maroon turban and mustache to match on one side and a chubby non-specifically-identified-religion Indian man to … More Time is an Illusion

Always Be Prepared

Day 17 – the end of the end – almost After our rooftop lunch we gather our bags and meet in the lobby. We are leaving behind three more. Fred, Shanthi and MB. Like Rishikesh, it’s sad, but we’re rushed so there’s no time for weepy good-byes. Back on our bus we head to the … More Always Be Prepared

Mid-day Musings

Day 17 – letting go After the Taj Mahal we meet back at our hotel for a farewell rooftop lunch. We can see the minarets from here. Lunch is delicious and rather than spend the time in sadness for our last day together, we are happily distracted by signing cards to all the amazing guides … More Mid-day Musings

Mighty Mahal

Day 17 – Last day on Indian soil. I can take or leave the Taj Mahal. It’s so cliche. One of the first questions I’m asked when I return from India, “Did you go to the Taj Mahal?” This is India to most people. I get it. And a little piece of me resents it. … More Mighty Mahal